Piper Kelly
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- Born:
- October 3, 1999, Indianapolis, Indiana, U.S.
Piper Kelly (born October 3, 1999, Indianapolis, Indiana, U.S.) is an American speed climber and a rising star in the sport. In 2023 Kelly won a gold medal at the Pan American Games.
Early life and education
Kelly was born to Stephanie Kelly and John Kelly and raised in Indianapolis. She began rock climbing at a gym with her father and uncles when she was seven years old. She found it exhilarating, but few others her age shared her passion for climbing. This led Kelly to focus on more mainstream sports, including volleyball, football (soccer), track, and cross-country. However, at age 12 Kelly returned to climbing and joined a competitive team. Within several years, she was hooked on speed climbing and trained while attending Irvington Preparatory Academy. Kelly later attended Xavier University, where she studied exercise science, psychology, and Spanish. She graduated in 2023.
Speed-climbing competitions
In 2016 Kelly participated in her first major competition, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Youth Championships. There she took fifth place in the speed event in the youth division. At the following year’s championships, she competed in the junior level and placed sixth. Two months later she took home her first gold medal, winning the speed event at the Pan American Youth Championship.
Moving to the elite level, Kelly entered her first IFSC World Cup in 2018 and placed 11th. Later that year she won the speed gold medal at the Pan American Championship. Kelly occasionally competed in bouldering (climbing small rock formations without ropes, harnesses, or hardware) competitions in 2018 and 2019, but she subsequently concentrated on speed climbing.
While training for the IFSC Climbing World Cup in 2019, Kelly suffered a partial shoulder dislocation (subluxation). After consulting several doctors, she decided to compete at the event. However, she ended up pulling out at the end of the first round after suffering two more subluxations. Over the next year, Kelly estimates she experienced more than a dozen subluxations and dislocations. She decided to have surgery in July 2020 amid the COVID-19 pandemic, which caused the cancellation of most sporting competitions. She then spent close to two years recovering and rehabilitating her shoulder.
Kelly returned to competition at the IFSC Climbing World Cup in May 2022 and finished 15th. She competed in several more international competitions over the next year and a half but placed mostly in the 20s. It was at the 2023 Pan American Games that Kelly broke through. There she set her personal best competition time (7.52 sec) and earned a gold medal. With the victory, she secured a spot on the U.S. team for the Paris 2024 Olympics. At the Games, a finger injury hampered Kelly’s performance, and she failed to earn a medal.